A professional home inspection is one of the most important steps in the buying process — but knowing what your inspector is looking for helps you ask better questions and understand the report. Here are 47 things to look for, organized by area of the home.

Before the Inspection: What to Know

A standard home inspection covers the visible and accessible components of the home. It does not include behind-wall plumbing, inside electrical panels (beyond the panel face), or areas blocked by stored items. Plan to attend the inspection in person — a good inspector will walk you through findings as they go.

Budget $300–$600 for a standard inspection on a typical single-family home. Larger homes, older homes, and add-ons like radon testing, sewer scope, or mold testing cost extra but are often worth it.

Exterior

1. Roof condition — Age, missing or damaged shingles, flashing around chimneys and vents. Ask the inspector to estimate remaining life.

2. Gutters and downspouts — Properly attached, directing water away from the foundation.

3. Grading and drainage — Ground should slope away from the foundation. Flat or inward-sloping ground causes water intrusion.

4. Foundation visible cracks — Horizontal cracks are more serious than vertical hairline cracks. Stair-step cracks in brick indicate settling.

5. Siding condition — Rot, gaps, missing sections, or improper caulking around windows and doors.

6. Driveway and walkways — Cracks or heaving that could indicate drainage or frost issues.

7. Deck or porch — Structural integrity, ledger board attachment, railing height and stability.

8. Garage door operation — Auto-reverse safety feature, weather sealing, condition of door and opener.

Roof and Attic

9. Attic insulation — Adequate depth and coverage. Missing insulation causes high energy bills.

10. Attic ventilation — Proper intake and exhaust vents prevent moisture buildup and premature roof failure.

11. Signs of past leaks — Water stains on rafters or sheathing, even if currently dry.

12. Chimney condition — Mortar joints, flashing, and cap. Interior flue condition if accessible.

Electrical System

13. Panel condition and capacity — Age, amperage (100A minimum for modern homes, 200A preferred), no double-tapped breakers.

14. Wiring type — Aluminum wiring (common in 1960s–70s homes) requires special attention and may need remediation.

15. GFCI outlets — Required within 6 feet of water sources (kitchens, bathrooms, garages, outdoors). Test each one.

16. AFCI breakers — Required in bedrooms in homes built after 2002. Protect against arc faults that cause fires.

17. Outlet grounding — Three-prong outlets in older homes may not actually be grounded. Inspector will test.

18. Smoke and CO detectors — Present and functional on each floor and outside sleeping areas.

Plumbing

19. Water heater age and condition — Average lifespan is 8–12 years. Check the manufacture date on the label.

20. Water pressure — Should be 40–80 PSI. Low pressure may indicate supply issues; high pressure stresses pipes.

21. Pipe material — Galvanized steel (rust risk), polybutylene (failure risk), lead (health risk in pre-1986 homes). Ask specifically.

22. Drain speed — Run water in all sinks and tubs. Slow drains indicate partial blockages or venting issues.

23. Toilet function — Flush each toilet. Check for rocking (failed wax ring), running water (flapper), or staining at the base.

24. Under-sink condition — Signs of past leaks, improper repairs, or active moisture.

25. Sump pump — If present, test operation. Presence indicates the basement has had water issues.

HVAC System

26. Furnace age and condition — Average lifespan 15–20 years. Ask for service records if available.

27. Air conditioner age and condition — Average lifespan 10–15 years. Inspect refrigerant lines and condenser unit.

28. Filter condition — A dirty filter at inspection time suggests deferred maintenance throughout.

29. Ductwork condition — Disconnected, crushed, or uninsulated ducts reduce efficiency and can cause air quality issues.

30. Thermostat operation — Test heating and cooling modes.

31. Combustion air supply — Gas appliances need adequate air supply to prevent carbon monoxide issues.

Interior — Structural

32. Ceiling and wall cracks — Hairline cracks are normal settling. Wide, diagonal, or stair-step cracks may indicate structural movement.

33. Floor levelness — Significant slopes (more than 1 inch over 8 feet) can indicate foundation or framing issues.

34. Door and window operation — Sticking doors and windows often indicate settling or moisture-related swelling.

35. Basement moisture — Efflorescence (white mineral deposits), staining, or musty smell indicates past or current water intrusion.

36. Crawl space condition — Vapor barrier, insulation, signs of moisture, pest activity, or structural damage.

Kitchen and Bathrooms

37. Exhaust fan operation — Bathroom fans should vent to the exterior, not into the attic.

38. Tile and grout condition — Cracked or missing grout around tubs and showers allows water intrusion behind walls.

39. Caulking around tubs and sinks — Gaps or mold indicate moisture issues.

40. Appliance operation — Test all included appliances: dishwasher, range, oven, microwave, garbage disposal.

41. Cabinet condition — Check under sinks for signs of past leaks. Test hinges and drawer slides.

Windows and Doors

42. Window seal failure — Fogging between double-pane glass indicates failed seals. Not a structural issue but reduces insulation value.

43. Window operation — Open and close every window. Painted-shut windows are a fire egress concern in bedrooms.

44. Exterior door weatherstripping — Gaps allow air and water infiltration and increase energy costs.

45. Deadbolt operation — All exterior doors should have functioning deadbolts.

Additional Inspections to Consider

46. Radon test — Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Testing is inexpensive ($15–$30 for a DIY kit, $100–$200 for a professional test). Required or recommended in many states, especially in the Midwest and Mountain West.

47. Sewer scope — A camera inspection of the main sewer line ($100–$300) is essential for homes over 30 years old. Tree root intrusion and collapsed pipes are expensive surprises that a standard inspection won't catch.

After the Inspection Report

Don't expect a perfect report — every home has issues. Focus on safety concerns, major systems nearing end of life, and structural problems. Cosmetic issues and minor maintenance items are normal. Use significant findings to negotiate repairs or a price reduction, not as a reason to panic.